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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.